Swedish food? It’s about to get exciting

Published on Yahoo Lifestyle UK & Ireland on 16th May 2014:

Meatballs from Meatballs for the People, Stockholm, Sweden

Thought Swedish food was all lingonberries, potatoes and meatballs?

Well, you’re sort of right.

According to a recent survey by Food & Friends, the most popular dish for Swedes is actually spaghetti Bolognese; meatballs don’t make an appearance until the 10th place. The rest of the top 10 dishes for Swedes is made up of some sort of protein, like meat or fish, with a rice, potato or pasta as a side.

You might think that the average Swedish home cooking is humble and rustic but you should know that Sweden is positioning itself to be a new gastronomic destination.

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Is beer best for fine dining?

Published on Yahoo Lifestyle UK & Ireland on 15th August 2013:

There’s been a movement on the fine dining scene, a new trend if you will, where beer is the new wine.

Well ok, beer and wine are completely different beverages but that’s a story for another time.

It is, however, true that beer has made a quiet invasion onto some of the UK’s most prestigious menus. In fact, Bloomberg has this week reported that microbreweries within the M25 has increased by 13 fold and attributed this to, in part at least, the wave of Michelin-starred restaurants adding beers to their menu.

And the phenomenon isn’t just happening with Asian cuisines where beer has always been king or in gourmet burger joints, but rather, the most wine-centric of fine dining restaurants – the French.

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Gastronomic Ghent: a rising star for food

Published on Yahoo Lifestyle UK & Ireland on 9th August 2013:

The ancient town of Ghent was once one of the most powerful places in northern Europe. Often thought of as a city, they say that it might even have been bigger than London. Today, the gateway town is much smaller though it remains important as the capital of the East Flanders province of Belgium.

On the food front, it’s surely becoming one of the shining stars of the international food scene. There may not be as many Michelin stars as nearby Bruges but it’s definitely seeing a revival. The recent sell-out event, The Gelinaz, spearheaded by a group of young chefs calling themselves the Flemish Foodies, was certainly testament to this new wave of gastronomic aspiration.

Still, food in Ghent remains heavily Flemish with many modern restaurants reinterpreting the most traditional of dishes. And there are still plenty of Ghentian specialities to be found.

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L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon: where France meets Japan

Published on Luxuria Lifestyle on 22nd January 2013:

It’s hard to pinpoint the L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon experience – it’s so overwhelming.  Let’s start with the concept.

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon is a two Michelin-starred French restaurant offering a Japanese style counter service.  The man behind the brand is the French born and internationally acclaimed Joel Robuchon, once named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau and chair on the committee which produced Larousse Gastronomique. At the steering wheel is head chef Olivier Limousin, who has led a skilled and international team since the restaurant opened in 2006.

The food? All fabulously French; but that fresh, light and boasting-of-health kind that Robuchon is so well known for. And plentiful in inventiveness.  At the kitchen facing front-line of the counter, it feels like the menu is an endless list of options, each one equally meticulously prepared. Even as we made our way through seven savoury courses, many more perfect alternatives were created for other guests. Then there’s the sweets – but more on that later.

First, an aperitif of parmesan cappuccino with port opened up the palate – a shot of flavour that really didn’t need its spoon for delivery. Taste buds shaken up, it was time for the next few courses.  We started on two seafood courses – crab meat with tomato jelly and scallop carpaccio with sea urchins and lemony olive oil; both delicate in colour and bold in flavour. My preference for white wine materialised in an inspired matching of Spanish Albariño and Luxembourgeoise Rivaner.  More classic white wine matches followed: a mineral-laden Austrian Grüner Veltliner to green asparagus cappuccino; a well-perfumed Alsatian Gewürztraminer to seared duck foie gras with Muscat grapes; and a balanced creamy Mâcon to a soft boiled egg with Iberico ham and parsley oil.  If the courses and wines seem like they are arriving hard and fast, it’s because they were. But each course is delicate and each wine light, leaving plenty of room for conversation. Besides, attentive service from the other side of the counter offers the option of savouring pauses; if needed.  The final savoury course was a luxurious foie gras stuffed quail with truffled mash and the first red wine of the evening, an Austria St Laurent – a combination I would happily enjoy every day.

The surprise of the evening was actually the pre-dessert – a small crumble. Not only because it marked the end of seven marvellous courses that went by all too fast but also because it’s markedly different from the sorbets and mousses so often presented for this interlude.  The arrival of the pre-dessert also introduced two intricate antidotes to my sweet tooth.  The first is a variation of La Sphere, a fruit and cream filled spherical structure, and the second, Le Minty, was a juxtaposition of mint chocolate, mint sorbet and milk foam. “Straw wine” from South Africa and a ’99 port tamed and embraced the sugar, fruit, mint and chocolaty tannins. Simply divine.

There it is, all ten courses of the l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon experience; perfection which began and ended with port. How difficult it is to pick a favourite from all these impossibly intricate combinations. Behind all the courses, though, is a solid back bone – one supported by skill, well-travelled exploration of ingredients and fresh-faced classical French cuisine.

One thing is for sure though, it is not somewhere to return to but somewhere to frequent.