Beginners’ guide to whisky for women

Published on Yahoo Lifestyle UK & Ireland on 29th November 2012:

Pouring whisky at Glen Garioch

If there’s one distillate that’s thought of as the man’s spirit, it’s whisky. Its high alcohol content and unyielding distinctive character creates a very masculine profile. Throw in cigars and poker and you have the ultimate boys’ night in.

But whisky is something that can and should be enjoyed by men and women; and not just on Burn’s Night either. Want to know why? Here’s a guide to get you started:

Read more at Yahoo!

42Raw, Mayfair

Published in Scout London Magazine November 26 – December 02 2012 Issue number 18:

London’s restaurant scene isn’t short of Scandinavian influence, and this is another concept to hail from Copenhagen. Recently opened as a café/restaurant at the Royal Academy, the idea is that everything it serves is either raw or “cooked” to below 42ºC. The menu is filled with healthy lunch options (it’s only open to 6pm) that are boxed up and ready to be taken away. Raw noodles of carrot and courgette are served in a sauce made of curry, chilli, ginger and coconut oil, while the “lasagne” is made up of courgette slices, tomato sauce, nut pestos and baby spinach. A Thai soup is unique on the menu for being both hot and delicious, but the rest, unfortunately, leaves us cold. Still, if you’re in a rush, their selection of healthy juices will certainly give you a boost.

 

Ten facts about Modernist Cuisine at Home

Published on Life in Luxury on 26th November 2012:

  1. Modernist Cuisine at Home is written by Nathan Myhrvold and Maxime Bilet, along with over 20 other contributors including chefs, machinists, photographers and editors.
  2. There are a total of 210,000 words making up Modernist Cuisine at Home.
  3. The cover is of a de-constructed grilled cheese sandwich. Its recipe doesn’t actually exist in the book though the different components are covered in the section on grilled cheese sandwiches.
  4. The weighty (9.9lbs) book’s foreword is by Martha Stewart… and Thomas Keller.
  5. At the beginning of the book, there is a two-page user guide. It teaches you, amongst other things like scaling recipes, how to use the book.
  6. There are two parts. Part one is all about stocking the Modernist Kitchen with notes on how things work, recommendations for just about every professional kitchen tool or equipment out there and guide to some specialist ingredients. Part two is composed of the recipes – all 145 of them, plus their variations.
  7. There’s a 230-page waterproof Kitchen Manual that reproduces every recipe included with the book.
  8. Sous vide is a big theme, as is pressure cooking, but most of the recipes are for simple home-cooked foods like pizza, burger and mac and cheese.
  9. No hob or oven? No problem. There’s an entire chapter of recipes for the microwave.
  10. It’s more text-book than stylised food-porn though the real science is still found in the original Modernist Cuisine books.

Duval-Leroy at The Greenhouse Mayfair

Published on Bon Vivant on 14th November 2012:

When we think of champagne, we inevitably think of canapés; indeed, this is the most frequent mode of delivery. At a stretch, perhaps, we think of demi-sec or sec with desserts. But outside of champagne enthusiasts, how many of us sit down to champagne matched to every course?

Well, as I discovered over a Duval-Leroy lunch at The Greenhouse, the French serve nothing but champagne at weddings, making it the ultimate celebratory drink. That’s a rather apt discovery since Duval-Leroy is one champagne house that’s very focused on their food. Take their Lady Rose, which was originally created for Pierre Hermé macaroons. But more on that later.

First, let’s sit down to a selection of their champagnes matched by head chef Arnaud Bignon’s specially created menu.

Duval-Leroy has 15 cuvées in its portfolio. We started with Fleur de Champagne 1er Cru NV as an aperitif, a champagne which celebrated its centenary last year and is Duval-Leroy’s best sellers in the restaurant trade. It’s not hard to see why it’s so popular – a delicate floral nose with a solid structure, ready to stand up against any likely canapé pairings.

Wild salmon, coconut, wasabi, curry, salad, Champagne Duval-Leroy lunch at The Greenhouse, Mayfair

Next up was the Rosé Prestige 1er Cru NV. This salmon-pink champagne is said to boast a bouquet of cherries, figs and even a hint of ginger – a difficult match but the chef’s wild salmon dish, with hints of curry and wasabi, worked beautifully.

The third champagne, La Femme de Champagne 2000 Grand Cru, was the favourite amongst the wine writers around the table. The powerful vintage, only produced in certain years and from selected Grand Cru plots, had great structure and finished to a soft mousse on the palate. Cornish crab highlighted with mint jelly, Granny Smith apple and curry made another challenging match but one that La Femme easily overcame with finesse.

The only blanc de blancs we had, the Clos des Bouveries 2005 cuvée oenoclimatique, was Duval-Leroy’s special experiment. The champagne, produced solely from Chardonnay grapes harvested from a century-old Duval-Leroy owned vineyard near Vertus, is vintaged every year so the effect of the weather on each vintage is fully explored and exposed.

The dish matched was an equally experimental looking chicken with truffle, chestnut and squash. Champagne with meat is perhaps the most difficult match and in this case there was a little too much experimentation on the palate.

The final champagne was the champagne for food lovers, and in particular, desserts – the aforementioned Lady Rose NV. Duval-Leroy still celebrate this champagne with their annual Dessert of the Year competition. At 25g/l dosage, the champagne falls firmly into the super sweet sec category.

Originally produced as a half bottle, it has proved so popular in Asia, matching well with Asian cuisine, that a full sized bottle is now produced too. With berries on the nose and slight acidity on the palate, the Lady Rose NV married well with the raspberry, lychee and rose dessert.

Raspberry, lychee, rose, Champagne Duval-Leroy lunch at The Greenhouse, Mayfair

It seems that there’s certainly room for champagne with every course, though matching is not always so simple. Duval-Leroys champagnes did well with the fish and of course dessert but further explorations are certainly needed for meats. And that’s not something to complain about!

It was also interesting to learn about the champagne house’s dedication to the sustainable development of their vineyards and winemaking. This includes continued commitment to reducing water usage, use of solar panels to reduce their carbon footprint and a move towards organic vinification with some of their cuvées.

Now that is something worth raising a glass of champagne to.

La Mancha, Putney

Published in Scout London Magazine October 12-21 2012 Issue number 12:

La Mancha, Putney, Scout London

Running for some 20 years in Putney, this locals’ favourite has had a menu overhaul of late. There are now more than 50 tapas dishes on the menu, plus mains, sides and desserts. And if you thought tapas were small plates then think again. Here, the portions are generous enough to share happily – five dishes are recommended for two people. As a strangely large amount of the food is fried, things can get a little greasy, especially when it comes out faster than you can make room for it. But that’s nothing a cold sherry, icy Spanish beer or a frozen daiquiri can’t fix. A drip-feed of Jamon Serrano with pan al ajillo (that’s garlic bread for those of you whose grip on Spanish is less than basic) will keep you chatting for hours over those cool drinks, and you’ll probably feel like a siesta afterwards. Go on, take it easy – there’s always mañana.