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Absolute Taste Masterclass

by Qin Xie | Leave a comment

Published on Foodepedia on 9th November 2010:

Last week I was invited to try my hand at making a few “F1 quality” nibbles at Absolute Taste at Harvey Nichols. The F1 quality is not to blow my own horn of course but rather because Absolute Taste started out as a hospitality company catering to the VIP guests of Vodafone McLaren Mercedes around the world.

Founded in 1997, Absolute Taste was the brain-child of Ron Dennis and Lyndy Redding with an objective to create contemporary and delicious food that’s presented with style. The success of their venture was led by their growing reputation for stylishly good food and professional service.

Since their launch, Absolute Taste have successfully branched out into other fields including Absolute Taste Inflight, Cafés by Absolute Taste, Gordon Ramsay by Absolute Taste and most recently Absolute Taste at Harvey Nichols which opened in May this year.

Rocket pizzaOur little cookery class was led by Executive Chef Will Gould and Head Chef Andy Ritchie and took place at the kitchens of Absolute Taste at Harvey Nichols. Located on the Fifth Floor and tucked away behind the Foodhall, this was the perfect little spot to make the mistakes not normally made in an Absolute Taste kitchen.

First up was pizza making with Andy. I must admit, I’ve made a few pizzas in my time but never with so much autonomy in a professional kitchen. Andy quickly put one together and then pretty much left us to our rustic creativity. Mozzarella balls, olives, parma ham, and chorizo all went on to my hand rolled and slightly square pizza base. In fact, my entire pizza was a little “square” with its not very rustic attempt at perfection. Rest assured though, my pizza moving skills are far below par so the result is still fairly rustic. Three minutes in the amazing pizza oven and we had dinner part one. Topped with a sprinkling of rocket leaves and a drizzle of truffle oil, my pizza was looking good and tasting even better.

Absolute Taste masterclass

After a quick munch it was on to the rice paper rolls with Will. He led us through the ingredients like yellow fin tuna and of course the rice paper itself. Putting whole mint leaves along with the basil into the paper rolls helped to protect the soaked rice paper from tearing. It was then topped with the sushi grade tuna, cucumber, carrots and avocado and rolled as tightly as possible to create the rice paper rolls. The wasabi was optional but the result was very sushi like. So much so in fact, it’s sometimes served as a substitute for sushi for those who don’t like the taste of seaweed. Well I quite like sushi but these were also rather good. The mint leaves were a very unusual addition and definitely gave the whole thing a much more refreshing mouth-feel.

So what did I learn from my experience? When making pizza, don’t try to be neat – the rustic pizza will prevail. And though my efforts weren’t quite F1 quality, they did taste wonderful.

Absolute Taste at Harvey Nichols is now open on the fifth floor for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and nibbles from 9am-7pm on Monday to Saturday, and 12-6pm on Sundays.

Absolute Taste at Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ www.absolutetaste.com

Adam Byatt – How to eat in

by Qin Xie | Leave a comment

Published on Foodepedia on 9th November 2010:

The first thing you should know about Adam Byatt’s ‘How to eat in’ is that the recipes are not as hard as they look.

The basis of this rather hefty book are recipes to elevate simple home cooked meals to family favourites and recipes to serve as dinner party pièce de résistance. By simply flicking through the book and looking at the photographs though, it’s difficult not to imagine the amount of work it would take to recreate some of the dishes. The introduction for beetroot-cured salmon gravadlax even states that it’s a four-day process – not a job to be taken on unless you are a seriously keen cook.

As this is his first cookbook, chef and patron of Trinity in Clapham Adam Byatt has done very well. The dishes are not only beautifully presented but some are also highly unusual like the maple-glazed belly of pork with saffron and cockles. This makes a refreshing change to the cookbooks full of staples.He has divided up his book like a menu. There are the breads, the starters, the mains, the desserts and the sauces to complement. And given the selection of recipes and a special section on outdoor food, this book is something which can be used all year round.

Having previously dined at Trinity, I instinctively looked for the food served there. The recipes revealed all the hard work that went into those delicious meals and gave me a real appreciation of the flavours. They were also a little daunting because having already spotted the salmon gravadlax recipe, I thought that all the recipes were going to be quite complex and time consuming.

Take the pig’s trotters on toasted sourdough with crackling for example, it’s a staple on the Trinity menu. The recipe itself spreads over two pages. One page is solely dedicated to the list of ingredients and instructions for preparation, some of which must be done the day before. The second page is the actual method. If there wasn’t a deliciously tempting photograph intercepting the two pages, I would surely be going crossed-eyed at the amount of work. But then after actually reading through the recipe, there wasn’t anything particularly hard. Cooking the dish still takes a lot of time and effort but at least the result is rewarding.

There is a fair selection of easy but equally delicious recipes too like pot roast loin of old spot pork with kumquats or the 10-minute banana and maple ice cream.

Perhaps what has been most daunting all along has been Byatt’s chef-approach to his recipes. That is, every recipe comes with a comprehensive preparation guide so when you come to the method section, it’s literally a matter of cooking. For the trained chef, this comes as second nature. For the average Joe, though, it seems like a lot of work.

Overall, ‘how to eat in’ has been very inspiring. It serves as more of a guide to cooking restaurant quality food at home than a day-to-day cook book. But if you love to cook and you love good food, this book would be perfect.

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Ron Zacapa, the story behind the rum

by Qin Xie | Leave a comment

Published on Foodepedia on 30th October 2010:

“When you make rum just to make rum, you make Ron Zacapa.”

Those would be famous last words if they weren’t the first thing that Master Blender Lorena Vasquez told me about Ron Zacapa, the Guatemalan rum brand established in 1976 to celebrate the centenary of the city of Zacapa. I met Lorena at Rumfest to learn more about the rum, which had been growing in popularity amongst bartenders even before its official UK launch.

Unlike most rums currently on the market, which are made from molasses, Ron Zacapa is made from “virgin honey”. This is the syrup containing 72% sugar, produced by heating and evaporating pressed sugar cane juice. Three grades of sugar can be extracted from virgin honey leaving molasses, which only has a sugar content of 48-50%, as a natural by-product. Making rum from molasses was effectively the way to monetise the wastage from the sugar production process while making rum from virgin honey produces only rum.

Using virgin honey to make rum in Guatemala down to tradition more than anything else. At the beginning of the 20th Century, there were many small distilleries in Guatemala making rum. Rum production in Guatemala was always meant to be an artisanal craft so only virgin honey was ever used for the process. In fact, in Guatemala, rum can only be legally defined as such if it is produced using virgin honey. Today there is only one distillery in Guatemala making rum, Industrias Licoreras de Guatemala. Ron Zacapa is one of a number of spirits produced there and to Guatemalans, it’s a drink which represents Guatemala on the international market.

When I asked Lorena what Ron Zacapa was like, she tells me: “Zacapa is like meeting up with an old friend – there’s good and bad moments. It’s friendly, sophisticated and complex and there’s always something new to discover”.

And it’s true. When you try it for the first time, you immediately discover its sweetness compared to other sipping rums. And as you slowly sup on it, you get hints of vanilla, chocolate and toffee.

There are currently three rums in the Ron Zacapa family: 15, 23 and XO. They have all been produced using an adapted Solera system and have been aged between 5-15 years, 6-23 years and 6-25 years respectively. The Solera system is a system of blending and ageing which creates the complex bouquet of aromas found in the rum.

All Zacapa rums are first aged in white American oak barrels that contained either bourbon or whiskey. After sufficient aromas and flavours have been imparted to the rum, the contents are transferred to an intermediate vat and blended with older rums that are at the same stage of production. The product is then transferred to charred white American oak barrels that contained either bourbon or whiskey for further ageing. After the second ageing stage, the rum is transferred to an intermediate vat and again blended with older rums at the same stage in the production process. The process is then repeated for barrels that contained sherry and Pedro Ximenez, a sherry like dessert wine. At each stage, the rum is blended with aged rums. For the XO, there is an extra stage where the rum is aged in French oak barrels which had previously contained cognac.

After being aged in various barrels, the rum will have taken on different characteristics in terms of flavour and aroma. Because of the blending with aged rums, the result is both vibrantly alive like a young rum and deeply smooth like an aged rum. After the final barrel, Pedro Ximenez for the 15 and 23 and French oak for the XO, the rum is stored in used white American oak barrels for further ageing. The used barrels won’t add further characteristics to the profile of the rum so can be used for ageing. For Ron Zacapa, all of this takes place at an altitude of 2,300 above sea level which Lorena believes adds an unique quality to the rum.

When the rums are ready to be bottled after the whole ageing process, they are blended one final time to ensure the consistency in flavour of the rum. Once they are bottled the rums stops ageing and should reach the consumer as they had left the distillery. After that long and complicated process, some truly exceptional rums are produced.

The 15 is said to be soft and sweet to start, with peach, dried tropical fruits and a hint of nutmeg. The 23 has notes of honey, butterscotch, spiced oak and raisined fruit. The XO tastes of dark cherry chocolate, dried fruits and sweet oak spices. I’m not sure my palate was quite sensitive enough to detect the complexity in the blends but the smoothness of the drinks is unquestionable.

Lorena, whose highly sensitive nose has been bothered by the scent of curry served in the café across the room, likes Zacapa “neat and with good company”. At a push, she finally revealed that she enjoys the 15 for cocktails, 23 with food and XO to finish a meal. She also revealed that she has been experimenting on a new addition to the family, but it was top secret.

I guess we’ll just have to wait and see.

Foodie things for Halloween weekend

by Qin Xie | Leave a comment

Published on Foodepedia on 28th October 2010:

With Halloween falling on a Sunday this year, there’s a whole weekend of ghoulish foodie events to attend. Here are a couple just to get you started.

Friday:

Head down to the Vauxhall Griffin for their regular Friday night bash – PiE&MASH. It’s a sort of club night, but in a pub. And after 10.15pm, pies are served upstairs in the Ruby Lounge. For Halloween, the theme is Nightmare on Pie Street but the pies are nightmare free.

The Vauxhall Griffin, 8 Wyvil Road, LONDON SW8 2TH www.pieandmashlondon.co.uk

Saturday:

Browse the Halloween creations at the World’s First 18+ Cake Shop, temporarily housed at Maiden. The pop up shop has been certified 18+ only and is brought to you by The Mad Artists Tea Party and PRETOX Drink Alibi. If you wanted to add something extra special to your treats bowl, there are 666 confectionery items for sale there from 29th – 31st October.

188 Shoreditch High Street, E1 6HU London www.evilcakeshop.com

If you have kids though, you might want to wander towards Harrods instead. They have face painting and arts and crafts around the store on 30th – 31st October. There is also pumpkin carving on the 30th, along with foodie tips on how to use up the rest of your pumpkin.

87–135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7XL www.harrods.com

Sunday:

Load up on food at the Halloween Suppliers Market on Sunday at Inn the Park. It’s only on from noon until 3pm so make sure you’re on time. Some of the best British producers will be attending, producers who usually only supply to restaurants, so it’s a great opportunity to stock on some luxury goodies. There will of course be pumpkin carving, cake decorating and samples from the stalls.

Inn the Park, St James’s Park, SW1A 2BJ

Chocolate Week Event Guide

by Qin Xie | Leave a comment

Published on Foodepedia on 11th October 2010:

Hey chocolate lovers, we know that Chocolate Week is like Christmas for you. So for Chocolate Week this year (11-17th October), we’ve put together a few other things that you could do to celebrate. In case you are not au fait with Chocolate Week, it is a week full of chocolate related events ending with Chocolate Unwrapped at the Vinopolis. You can also read the pick of Chocolate Week Treats here.

Chocolate making:

  • Artisan du Chocolat will be running a ‘bean to bar’ day at their Kent atelier on the 9th of October. This is a little ahead of Chocolate Week but it is a very special event because for the very first time, they will attempt to make 300kg of chocolate from Jamaican beans on site. This means all the roasting, winnowing, grinding, conching and refining. You can book in for the event for free by emailing irena@kitchencommunications.com and telling her why you should be invited. Of course if you can’t attend this, Artisan du Chocolat are also hosting free tastings of their bean to bar chocolate at their shops in Westbourne Grove, Lower Sloane street and Selfridges, Oxford Street.
  • William Curley will be setting up shop at Claridge’s on the 15th and 17th of October to spread his wisdom on truffle making and seasalt caramels. With classes at £100 per person, you can expect to walk away with some truly extraordinary chocolates. Call 0207 409 6307 to book. If that’s a bit pricey then you can still enjoy some William Curley specials during the rest of the week for Claridge’s Afternoon Tea or at one of his London stores. William also runs truffle master classes and other bespoke tutorials at his London stores, POA.
  • If you just fancied a hand at making chocolates at home, why not pick up a chocolate making kit from ChocChick? One pack has everything you need to make basic chocolate bars or get creative and add your own special ingredients. Kits are from £11.99 and are available on www.chocchick.com.

 Chocolate dinners:

  • How could Chocolate Week be complete without some tea? On the 9th of October, Smugglers in Cornwall will be hosting a tasting master class with a three course dinner, wine and petit fours for £85 per head. The tea will be supplied by Tregothnan Teas, the only producer growing tea in England, and the chocolates are from Demarquette. Call 01872 520000 to book for the event.
  • Richmond’s Michelin-starred restaurant, The Bingham, will be serving up a chocolate themed gala dinner to launch Chocolate Week on the 11th of October. The menu is a collaboration between the restaurant’s executive chef Shay Cooper and chocolatier William Curley and is available for £120 per head. For the rest of the week until the 16th of October, there will be a tasting menu at only £65 per head. Visit www.thebingham.co.uk to book.
  • For a dinner with a different, food journalist and author Sudi Pigott will be hosting a chocolate quiz at Northbank Restaurant, London, on the 12th of October. Tickets are £30 per head and includes a three course meal plus a glass of wine. Call 0207 329 9299 to book.

 Chocolate drinking:

  • There are more than a few Chocolate Afternoon Teas around for Chocolate Week but there is only one which is available all year round. The Hilton, Park Lane, serves up a delicious one called ‘Confessions of a Chocoholic’ with open sandwiches, chocolate tea pots and chocolate chip scones. The selection is usually dark chocolate based but for Chocolate Week only, they are changing their entire selection to milk chocolate. For only £25 per head, call 0207 208 4022 to book.
  • Harrod’s Wine Shop have teamed up with Godiva to do chocolate and rum tastings in-store on the 12th of October with UK Rum ambassador Ian Burrell. Call 0207 893 8777 to book. If you have to miss out, they also do a Godiva Rum ‘n’ Reason selection box.
  • K West Hotel & Spa, London, have created five chocolate cocktails – Liquid Bounty, Choconana, Jaffatini, Peppermint Crisp, Raspberry Blush. At only £5 each, they are a real treat. For more information go to www.k-west.co.uk.

 Free chocolate tastings:

  • Fortnum & Mason will be hosting tastings of chocolates by Master Chocolatier Marc Demarquette throughout Chocolate Week. You can sample one of the seven flavours from the Orient Collection in store and even meet the man himself on the 14th of October.
  • La Maison du Chocolat are hosting a series of chocolate tastings at their Picadilly and Harrods stores during Chocolate Week. They have also launched a limited edition chocolate box which contains Caracas, a plain cocoa ganache with hints of grilled almonds and spices, and Extreme chocolat, an 100 % pure cocoa ganache with notes of roasted coffee, just for Chocolate Week.
  • Harvey Nichols will be hosting hot chocolate sampling with Choc-o-lait at selected stores on the 16th of October. Choc-o-lait is the Belgian company which makes chocolate sticks which you simply dip into hot milk and stir to create tasty hot chocolate. They will also have a number of other Chocolate Week events in store but will vary according to location.

 Other titbits…

  • For some light reading, Food and Travel magazine are doing a chocolate themed November issue with exclusive chocolate recipes from Marcus Wareing. Of course if you have more time, you could always enjoy Sarah Jane Evan’s new book, Chocolate Unwrapped: Taste and enjoy the world’s finest chocolate.
  • Young’s have used their Double Chocolate Stout to create some chocolate brownie recipes. Why not give it a go at home? We have the recipe here.
  • And last but not least, the UK national selection for the World Chocolate Masters takes place at this year’s Restaurant Show, London, on the 11th and 12th of October. The contestants have to create works of art according to the theme ‘Cocoa Quetzalcoatl’s Gift’. For more information, visit www.worldchocolatemasters.com. The event is held at a trade show so if you have anything to do with the restaurant industry, register here: www.therestaurantshow.co.uk.