Tonkotsu is the sort of place you can follow your nose to; the bubbling stock-pot by the window is surely designed to lure in passers-by. Owned by the people behind Tsuru Sushi, this new venture skilfully rides the wave of noodle fever currently flooding Soho. As is usually the case with anything namesake, the tonkotsu noodle dish (which translates as ‘pork bone’) is one to try. Creamy and only slightly gelatinous from the pork stock, with a fragrant edge coming from near-raw spring onions, it’s salivating stuff to slurp your way through. The rest of the menu is simple and compact. Ramen sit with sides such as prawn and pork gyoza, edamame and crisp deep-fried chicken karaage, but it’s the noodles which bring in the oodles.